尼格罗尼鸡尾酒与他的故事

2016-01-06 16:59:26 浏览次数:0

    有些人认为,真正的尼格罗尼只能用等份的这三款原料制作。我会誓死捍卫他们说话的权利,但他们的观点是错误的。首先,我要指出世界上不存在鸡尾酒名字的监管委员会。其次,我相信我们在看待这件事时应该向烹饪界借鉴。毕竟厨师和调酒师的工作都是遵循或创造配方,对吗?我认为,尽力找出鸡尾酒的原始配方是很重要的。就内格罗尼而言,我们幸运地拥有1:1:1的配方作为模板。但我也认为,每一位调酒师都喜欢为经典鸡尾酒注入自己的风格,所以让我们不要在细枝末节上浪费时间了。如果你仍然坚持原始配方是唯一的调制方式,我为你的坚定鼓掌——同时也希望你找到了尼格罗尼伯爵在1919年使用的金酒及味美思品牌。

    There are people who will argue that unless the drink is made with equal parts of the trinity that tumbles into the glass and unifies as a Negroni, it cannot be called a Negroni. I’ll fight to the death for their right to say that, but they’re wrong. First, I need to point out that there is no regulatory board governing the names of drinks. And next, I should say that I believe we’d do ourselves a service by looking toward the world of food for guidance in this matter. After all, both chefs and bartenders are in the business of following or creating recipes, right? I think it’s important, whenever possible, to find out how specific cocktails were originally made. And in the case of the Negroni, we’re lucky to have the 1:1:1 formula as a template. But each and every bartender out there, I think, enjoys putting his or her own twist on all of the classics, so let’s not get bogged down in minutiae. And for those folk who still insist that the original formula is the only way to go, I applaud your stubbornness – and hope you’ve managed to locate the same brands of gin and vermouth as Count Negroni used back in 1919.

    

    有些颇为类似于我们熟悉的金酒加味美思加金巴利版本。有些换上了不一般和出人意料的修饰剂、基础烈酒和阿玛罗。有些看上去和感觉像是经典尼格罗尼,但只要喝上一口就会发现它们有着显著不同。还有一些甚至都不是红色的。这些酒的共同点在于它们都是无比地可口。而且它们都源自同一个祖先,都构建在同一个基础之上。那个基础就是生于意大利(我们如此认为)的尼格罗尼,而它的诞生过程直到今天仍然存在极大争议。

    Some are pretty darned close to the gin-vermouth-Campari version we’re all familiar with. Others swap in unusual 
and unexpected modifiers, base spirits and amari. Some look and feel like a classic Negroni but reveal themselves to be strikingly different upon first sip. Others aren’t even red. What these
 drinks have in common is their complete and utter deliciousness. And they all owe their existence 
to the same forefather; they were all built on the same foundation. That foundation is the Negroni, born in Italy (we think), under circumstances that are still fiercely debated to this day.

Pizza Negroni / 披萨尼格罗尼

    这款酒听上去像是住在父母地下室的小伙子士、帕尔马芝士和金酒放喝高了之后的杰作,事实上它美味且极其精入带密封盖的广口瓶中。将瓶密封后轻轻摇晃。浸致。番茄水配方是450毫升左右的量。

30ml 以马苏里拉和帕尔马芝士浸渍的飞行金酒
30ml 马天尼Gran Lusso味美思
30ml 金巴利
15ml 番茄水
柠檬皮卷
装饰:一枚橄榄和一片萨拉米

    将所有原料倒入调酒杯,搅拌时间要比你通常的用时大约少一半。在酒的上方挤一下柠檬皮卷,丢弃不用。把橄榄和萨拉米穿在鸡尾酒签上,装饰后上桌。

    以马苏里拉和帕尔马芝士浸渍的飞行金酒:120克马苏里拉芝士,稍微切碎;60克帕尔马芝士皮,稍微切碎;1瓶(750 ml)飞行金酒。将马苏里拉芝士、帕尔马芝士和金酒放入带密封盖的广口瓶中。将瓶密封后轻轻摇晃。浸渍五到七天。将固体物滤掉,冷冻24小时。用咖啡滤纸再过滤一遍,以完全去除凝固的脂肪。

    番茄水:取680克成熟番茄和一大撮盐。用粗棉布包住筛子,放在一个大碗上。把番茄粗粗切碎,放入包好的筛子中,撒上盐。盖上后至少冷藏12小时,然后将固体物滤掉,按照配方使用番茄水即可。

By Morgan Schick, Trick Dog, San Francisco

    While this cocktail sounds like the invention of a stoned teenager in his parents’ basement, in fact it’s a deliciously savoury, wonderfully refined drink. The tomato water recipe makes around 450ml.

30ml Aviation gin infused with mozzarella and parmesan
30ml Martini & Rossi Gran Lusso vermouth
30ml Campari
15ml Tomato water
Lemon twist
Garnish: 1 olive and 1 slice salami

    Stir all the ingredients with ice in a mixing glass for about half as long as you would normally, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Squeeze the lemon twist over the drink, then discard. Skewer the olive and salami slice with a cocktail pick, garnish, and serve.

    Aviation gin infused with mozzarella and parmesan; 120g mozzarella cheese, roughly chopped; 60g rind from parmesan cheese, roughly chopped; 1 (750 ml) bottle Aviation gin. Combine the mozzarella, parmesan and gin in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Seal the jar and shake gently. Let infuse for five to seven days. Discard the solids, then freeze for 24 hours. Strain once more through a coffee filter to remove any solidified fat.

    Tomato water: 680g ripe tomatoes; large pinch of salt. Line a sieve with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl. Coarsely chop the tomatoes, then place in the lined sieve and sprinkle with salt. Cover and chill for at least 12 hours, then discard the solids and use the tomato water as directed.

   

Stiletta

    鸡尾酒天才Phil Ward毫无保留地透露了这款酒的源起:“我在宿醉中一边喝金巴利加苏打水一边干着酒吧的杂事。在给热苹果酒加八角茴香的时候,我正好和了一口金巴利。我想,天哪,这两个暴君可以共处吗?我试了一下。答案是肯定的。”

45ml 特索罗白特其拉
30ml 卡柏诺·安蒂卡配方
30ml 以八角浸渍的金巴利

    将所有原料在调酒杯中加冰搅匀,滤入冰过的鸡尾酒杯。

    以八角浸渍的金巴利20枚八角茴香的角荚1瓶(750 ml)金巴利将八角茴香和金巴利放入带密封盖的广口瓶中。密封后轻轻摇晃。浸渍八小时左右或过夜。用湿润的双层粗棉布过滤。

By Phil Ward, Mayahuel, New York City

    Cocktail genius Phil Ward didn’t pull any punches when he described this drink’s origins: “I was hungover and drinking Campari and soda while doing my chores at the bar. I was mulling cider and putting in the star anise just as I took a sip of Campari. I was like, Wow, could those two tyrants actually coexist? I tried it. They did.”

45ml El Tesoro blanco tequila
30ml Carpano Antica Formula
30ml Campari infused with star anise

    Stir all the ingredients with ice in a mixing glass, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

    Campari infused with star anise: 20 star anise pods; 1 (750 ml) bottle Campari. Combine the star anise and Campari in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Seal the jar and shake gently. Let infuse for about eight hours or overnight. Strain through a double layer of dampened cheese cloth.

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